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Answers
To Your Mule Questions
by Cindy K (McKinnon) Roberts
Updated:
06/18/2008 04:52 PM
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MULE IN
MOURNING
I bought my friend’s
hand-raised pony mule (Minnie Mule) as a companion to my old horse several
years ago. Unfortunately, I had to put my mare down last week at the ripe
old age of 31 due to heart failure. Minnie has proven to be a wonderful
companion although does not like the vet or having her feet trimmed. (bad!
bad!) She was in the pasture during the time my mare was euthanized and
buried. The horse is buried in the woods where she
and Minnie had their daily siestas. Minnie hangs out next to the grave but
still gets out to eat and drink. I know mules are smart but do you think she
is mourning? I have another mare out in pasture across the road and wonder
if I should bring her over or wait awhile. I also have 4 goats in the
pasture with Minnie but she isn’t really interested in becoming a member of
their gang. Any advice? Your book has been very helpful and
entertaining!
Thanks, Mitchell
Hello Mitchell,
I am so sorry to hear about your horse. You did the right thing and yes I
believe mules mourn. After a few days you may want to introduce Minnie to
another companion such as a horse or another mule. Mules are bonding
creatures and it has been my experience that mules have the mental capacity
to have separation issues whether it is with a human or another horse.
Thank you for your email, best of luck to you and keep in touch.
Working with that
deer-in-the-headlight-look
Hi Cindy,
I am a first time
mule owner. I have a little 5 year old Tennessee Walker Mule who is just
being perfect for me…..except, if there is any contrast in color in the
arena or out on the trail he will stop and not budge! At all! I know we are
supposed to be patient with them, but he would stand there for five minutes
and not budge. I broke a rule and yes, I did lose my temper. We were in the
middle of a road and I was afraid of getting hit. So I had to hop off and
DRAG him off the road! How do you deal with this? He has started stopping
and not budging all the time! It is fine when we are riding with other
people but now it’s to the point where I don’t want to ride him by ourselves
because he stops all the time! HELP!
I am a student at an agriculture
college and I am going to be using him in an equine behavior/ground work
class. I will be the only mule in the class and they have never had a mule
in this class before and I would love to show them what they have! I love my
little mule, but I am missing the forward movement.
Carly
Hi Carly,
A round pen would be ideal for your mule. If you have access to a round pen
or small corral, you can set up different items for your mule to explore.
Colored flags and/or beach balls with color are a good start to his
training. You can get these items at the Dollar Store. Tie the flags off
inside your working area and let him explore them on his own. When he is
comfortable with this, place a beach ball in with the colored flags. Keep
adding things one at a time. Balloons are good too. As your mule adjusts
to the colored props, saddle him and ride him around these items.
Slowly rub his body with the colored flag and give him time to adjust.
I find that TW mules tend to be a little more nervous as compared to other
breeds such as Quarter mules and males tend to be more insecure. This is
not a bad thing. Take the time and patience to work with him and he will
eventually give up that "deer-in-the-headlight-look." When he gets
acquainted with his new toys, then you can use your new mule playground to
play games with him and keep his mind willing and fresh. Best wishes and
thanks for your email. Cindy K. Roberts.
Hard To Bridle
Dear Cindy,
I have a three year old john mule that has
had about five rides and is developing a habit of being hard to bridle.
What do you suggest? Thanks very much. Pat
Hi Pat,
I am assuming you
are starting this young mule out in a snaffle. Have a treat ready for your
mule (yes I am approving treats for your mule.) With your right hand, press
down on his poll area to encourage him to drop his head down - with your
left hand - reward him with the treat. That is phase I. Teach your mule to
drop his head while applying pressure on the poll - then reward. Next, play
the finger game with him. Go slow - rub his muzzle and slip your finger in
and out of the corner of his mouth. This takes several times of doing this
-- you are desensitizing the mule to stick things in and out of his mouth.
Reward again with a treat. Next, take the bridle (right hand on headstall
at top) and apply pressure on his poll - asking him to drop his head, slide
the bit in and give him a treat at the same time. Also have the mule's
teeth checked and be considerate while taking his bridle off - being careful
not to bump his teeth. Most bridling problems develop from going too fast
with a mule, teeth problems, incorrect fitting headstalls, using too harsh
of a bit and bumping teeth while taking off the bridle. I did have a big
mule that was reluctant to taking the bit - I soaked the bit in Apple Pucker
Schnapps and he didn't mind being bridled after that. There are no set
rules to training mules - what works for one may not work for another.
Using a common sense approach while thinking on your feet will keep you in
the game. Go slow -- let me know how you are doing. Cindy K.
Roberts
How firm should I be with
my sensitive mule?
Hi Cindy,
I really enjoyed your book, as a new mule
owner I need all the advice I can get. It's important that it comes from an
mule-savvy female too. I still have a question about the ground manners of
my 2 gals. Dixie is 7-8 year-old, my first mule and really bonded to me.
Maggie is her 16 year-old big, calm, sage buddy that I bought to keep her
company, give her confidence on the trail and the perfect hubby mule. When
I am in the pasture they both want my attention. Dixie wants her massages
and interferes when I try to groom Maggie or give her care.
How firm should I be with Dixie? She is so
sensitive and gets her feelings hurt easily, I swear she pouts after any
kind of discipline. When they were crowding me for hay months ago, I just
tapped my new crop on the ground and she took off. If they crowd me too
much I use the side of my hand on their jaws and a firm tone. They learn
fast but I want to set the tone right without being too punitive. Dixie is
way too smart for me and I don't want to be manipulated...I am still trying
to be that strong leader she really craves. Should I continue to use the
crop (not touching her) so she gets used to it? I know what I would do with
horses and Maggie (she has thick skin) but Dixie is special.
Jennifer
Hello Jennifer,
You are smart to recognize the sensitivity in Dixie. You will have to test
Dixie by applying the least corrective measure - if that is tapping your
crop on the ground then do it. Dixie has strong attachment to you however,
you are the sheriff of that outfit and not another herd member or pasture
buddy that Dixie would like to relate to. There are times when her feelings
will be hurt and by all means make up to her. Keep setting the boundaries
so that your safety is not compromised - in the long run you will be glad
that you did. Thanks for your email and let me know how your mules are
doing.
Cindy,
Wow, you are fast. Thanks so much for the
reinforcement! I will put my badge back on and make sure my mule-posse
knows they are just part of MY crew. Keep
the great advice coming.
Jennifer
Wants a mule pasture
maintenance and entertainment
Hi Cindy
I am a 65 yo doc with a 20ac weekend farm in Mass. My daughter had a
horse and then the pasture looked very nice! My daughter is gone now,
so the horse, and I am there only on weekends. So I want a mule year
round for pasture maintenance and entertainment. not a horse because of the
feeding habits and because it is quite nippy in winter.
Water is free flowing year round, shelter is an open shed, food is free
pasture in summer, round bales in winter and grains on weekends.
Salt lick, electric fence, vet in town...that's the situation.
I'd like the mule to come for treats, take a halter for trimming and
handling. Better if I can make her pull the cart in snow and carry a
load on field trips, ride in the trailer and do light work in the
field. Riding is less important - but I don't have much time to train her
up. Questions: What should I look for? What not?
I would not mind a big animal. I fear their redoubtable kicks, any
ways to predict them?
Fred
Hello Fred - that sure is a tall order for your first mule. I
would suggest getting a mammoth donkey. They are very entertaining to have
around, friendly, easy on the terrain, smart and you can ride them and drive
them. Mules tend to get independent when left out to pasture with no
routine. I am concerned that it would not be a good experience for you. If
you insist on having a mule to be your companion then I would look for a
draft mule that is older - 15 on up. You definitely want an older animal
that has been trained and knows the routine. Thanks for your email and let
me know who the lucky critter is.
Cindy K. Roberts
Living Conditions
Hi Cindy ...was
looking for a website that said something about hosing or washing mules
....in the attached reply regarding an inquiry I made about the living
conditions of the mules at the Grand Canyon the mule
operator claimed that "Mules don't like being hosed down." I
have horses but have never been around mules. Is this true or a nonsense?
Cheers - Kate (Australia.)
Hello Kate,
I have read your corresponding email and thank you for having high regard have a clean environment, properly fitted tack and a proper diet. I do
not like seeing sores on a working mule because that indicates overuse or
incorrect fitting tack. Mules are adaptable and have more stamina as compared to horses. They can tolerate harsh situations, however that is no excuse to impose unhealthy living conditions to any animal. Working mules are an investment with the idea of getting a return for your money. An ill or injured mule can not work satisfactorily under harsh conditions. It is smart and good business sense to treat your investment well. Mules that have not been exposed to being hosed down would not readily stand to have a water hose used on them. They adapt to dry heat and are able to endure more stress as compared to the horse. Mules take care of their needs by rolling in the dirt. The dust protects them from flies and it helps them to cool off.
I hope my reply has been informative and that it supports your wishes. Thank you for
keeping a watchful eye on our mules and thanks for your email. - Cindy K. Roberts
Bosal on young draft mule?
HI CINDY MY NAME IS JOEL MY WIFE JUST GAVE ME YOUR BOOK FOR CHRISTMAS.
I HAVE A YEAR AND A HALF OLD MOLLY DRAFT MULE HER DAD WAS 17 HANDS HIGH
AND HER MOTHER WAS A BELGIAN DRAFT HORSE SHE IS 18 HANDS HIGH. AT THE
PRESENT TIME MY MULE IS JUST OVER 16 HANDS HIGH. SHE IS MY FIRST MULE
SHE JUST LOVES ME. BUT WHAT I AM WONDERING IS WOULD IT BE ALRIGHT TO
START HER WITH A BOSAL. TO TRAIN HER TO RIDE. I DON'T PLAN ON
RIDING HER JUST YET. I WAS TOLD TO WAIT UNTIL SHE IS A LITTLE OLDER TO
RIDE. AND HOW TALL DO YOU THINK SHE WILL GET WITH HER PARENTS BEING AS
BIG AS THEY ARE. YOU HAVE A GREAT BOOK THANK YOU JOEL
Hi Joel,
I do not know your build or
how much you weigh. I have ridden (at a walk) young draft mules inside
the paddock but I am not a large individual either. You will have to be
careful because you don't want to risk injury to your young mule. The
knee joints are still developing. After closure in the knee cap then it
is ok to start riding gradually while developing your routine.
She is already a big girl,
remember - mules don't quit developing until age 6. I would expect her
to grow easily to 17 hands and probably taller.
If you ride with
your seat and leg aids - then a bosal would work. However, draft
mules tend to work better in a bit. I would start out with a
snaffle - such as a D-ring or full cheek.
I am glad you are
enjoying Answers To Your Mule Questions - thanks and let me know how you
are doing with your mule. Cindy K. Roberts
CANNOT touch hind
quartersHi Cindy,
I have 2 mules and 10 horses. Both mules
were rescues. One is 4 and we have had him for 3 years. He was
almost impossible to handle when we first got him. He is a
groundwork whiz now- he will back through barrels, side pass and do
anything for you EXCEPT: you CANNOT touch his hind quarters. I am
the only one he will allow to halter him although he doesn't seem
all that fond of me! I wonder if he is a Hinny because he has
shorter ears and looks a little different than most mules I have
seen. Someone once told me that hinnies are much more difficult to
work with. I have saddled him, he doesn't mind the saddle, but I am
loathe to get on an animal I can't handle all over. I do lots
of groundwork with my horses and they are a piece of cake compared
to the mules!! Should I just let him be a lawn ornament? I don't
think he would accept another person as a trainer. He won't let
anyone else handle his head. Any insight you can provide will
be welcome.
Thank you so much,
Sincerely
T.C. Wagner, Mansfield Missouri
T.C.,
Hinnies have more
horse like features to them as compared to the mule.
As far as their
disposition, in my opinion, they are not difficult to train.
Your mule/hinny was a rescue animal. That tells me the animal
was either abused and/or neglected. It sounds like your
mule/hinny was not handled very much and the little handling
that he had was negative and put a lasting impression on him.
Abused/neglected
animals require daily handling. More time is involved because
you have to move slow and build up trust as you two get into a
routine. You have to do repetitive grooming and handling to ask
more from your mule about his hindquarter issues. You have come
a long way with your mule - I wouldn't put him in the junk pile
yet. Hybrids are extremely smart.
Reward the mule for
every positive result. Set him up to make the right choices
while working with him with instant reward of kind words and a
stroke of the hand -- this will build his confidence. Thank you
for your email, Cindy K. Roberts
GIRTHING/GALLS
I HAVE SEVERAL MULES SMALL 12.5H OLDER (1) ABOUT 30 SOMETHING.
STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND WE RIDE HIM TRAIL RIDING. MY MOM RIDES
HIM AND SHE IS 76. HIS CONFIRMATION IS NOT FOR RIDING HE PULLS A LOT
NICER BUT SHE RATHER RIDE. ANY WAY, HE GALLS UP AND I HAVE TRIED
ALMOST EVERYTHING, BUT I AM SURE I AM FIXING TO GET SET STRAIGHT. I
HOPE!!!! I AM CONSIDERING THE MOHAIR GIRTHS, AGAIN. PLEASE AND
THANKS LYNN
Hello Lynn,
I am glad that you
are using your senior mules. If you are not already doing so,
try using a crupper to keep the saddle in place. As far as the
girthing there are a couple of things that you can do. First
try using a slick neoprene girth. I like to sprinkle baby
powder on the girth before cinching up (slowly). Cornstarch
works well too - this seems to work well on mules. Next, look
at saddles with 3 way rigging. That way you can adjust your
cinch and girth forward or back. Thank you for your email and
best wishes. Cindy K. Roberts
YOUNG MULE STARTED NIPPING
Hi Cindy,
I just want you to know I am not going to be bugging you all the time with
questions, I want your book to help me there, but I do have a small question
about how molly is acting...When I scratch what I call her "Sweet spots",
she shows she loves it by "Bobbing" her head up and down, or her lower lip
hangs loose and quivers, but at times she will nip me, not hard, but it
startles me, and when I startle then she jumps. It has only started
happening recently and I keep an eye on her now, but like last evening she
turned her head but each time
seemed to stop herself, so I don't know if this is going to continue or has
ended. What My question is, What is this she is doing, is it showing
acceptance, is she trying to tell me something, or is it just a bad habit
she has created during this time of her getting rubs and her back scratched
by me...by the way she is not tied up during this, she is free standing and
can leave at any time, but never does....
Thanks Cindy,
Scott Rong
Hi Scott,
Your young mule is communicating to you as a herd member. Mules and horses
relate socially as members of the herd by rubbing their heads on each other,
grooming each other and giving "love bites". However since you are not a
walking chocolate bar, you cannot allow this behavior to continue. Do not
"cuddle" your mule as this would encourage this type of behavior. You can
scratch your mule and caress her on the neck, but do not allow her to crowd
you or come into your space. Teach her to stand back about eighteen inches.
Simply push her back with a tug on the lead rope. Now that you have been
bitten, you will be prepared for your mule to make the same attempt again.
Since you are no longer cuddling your mule - you are helping to eliminate
this behavior. The moment she attempts to bite, quickly "elbow" her. DO
NOT USE YOUR HAND OR FIST. The reason for this: the mule will see it
coming and will resort to being head shy. Then they will be quicker to bite
and retreat in the future. A jab with the elbow and move on.
Remember Scott, your mule is going to grow into a 1000 pound animal. You
want her to be your partner and trusted mount on the trail, not a brat that
you cannot control. Spoiled mules can easily become dangerous. Thanks for
your email and keep in touch. Cindy K. Roberts
TRICK TRAINING
HI CINDY,
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS EASY OR A GOOD IDEA TO TRY
TO TRICK TRAIN MY 6 MONTH OLD MOLLY. I JUST GOT HER A WEEK AGO.
SHE IS VERY SWEET AND HAS BONDED WITH ME.. I HAVE TRAINED MY OWN
HORSES FOR TRAIL BUT NEVER A MULE. I HAVE A WHILE FOR THAT AND
I JUST WANT SOMETHING TO DO WITH HER TILL I TRAIN HER FOR TRAIL.
IF YOU THINK THIS IS A GOOD IDEA CAN YOU TELL ME A BOOK OR VIDEO TO
GET?? THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME, KAREN
Hi Karen,
thank you for your
email. Carole Fletcher has a good book titled, "Trickonometry"
that explains each trick with photos. Keep in mind that while
training your mule to do tricks, there is a thought/learning
process that the mule uses. The intro to this article is
located here:
http://www.everycowgirlsdream.com/learningpatterns.html
You will have to
teach your mule when to be "on" and when to be "off".
In other words, you
will have to "scold" your mule when she wants to perform and it
is not the right time or place to do so. If you over correct
her that will create problems.
Treats/rewards have
to be given and then minimized. While doing this, you will have
to teach your mule NOT TO ASK FOR A TREAT/REWARD.
Good luck with your
trick training and keep in touch. Cindy K. Roberts
WORKING WITH RESCUED MULEHello,
I just rescued a 4/5 year old female mule from a bad living situation.
She had been boarded up in a 5'x5' chicken coop by her previous owner to
keep her away from his mammoth mules because they where "beating her
up". I have no idea how long she had been in there. She could not even
stand up fully without hitting her head on the ceiling. Right now she
is skittish around people (understandably). I was told she is trained
to ride, but I want to establish a trust with her first before I even
try to see what she knows. (If she is really even trained!) I am a
horse trainer who has experience in working with abused horses...however
I have never worked with a mule! I was not ready to leave her in the
situation she was in. She is a cute little appy mule who is about 14.3
- I am 5'11'' . I was told she could carry me fine, however I
wouldn't dream of riding a horse that was her size and as slight in
build as she is. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I am also
going to be buying your book! Thanks!
Tam Cristman
Hello Tam,
First let me say, you are a remarkable
and caring individual. I am assuming that you have moved the mule to
your home. You are tall, is your height mostly in the torso or are you
all legs? What kind of build is your molly mule? Is she stocky? 14.3
is a little shy for someone that has a large build.
It will take some time to develop your
relationship, I am confident that you are able to do this. The
important thing to remember is, mules are individuals. To build
confidence in your mule - set her up so she can do the task at hand
successfully - reward and encouragement is the key - train her to do
what she likes to do. Perhaps she has the personality to be a trail
riding mule, or a carriage mule. I would stay away from timed - running
events, as mules that have had a rough start in life are not good
candidates for this. It is important to keep her in a good family
situation. Good luck and keep in touch. Thanks for your email.
Cindy K. Roberts
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BIT EVASION
9-22-07
Dear Cindy,
I just got your book and I really enjoy all
of the mule information. However, I have
another question. My mule is evading the
bit by putting his head on his chest when I
ask him to turn. I have tried several bits
including: a Tom Thumb, grazing bit, mullen
mouth Pee Wee bit, and most recently a Billy
Allen type bit. I had his teeth floated and
his wolf teeth removed earlier this spring.
I have tried being gentle to firm.
When we begin riding he does everything
right-stops, backs, and turns. Then he
decides he is not going to turn, and puts
his head down to his chest. I am assuming
this is his way of saying "we are done". I
feel really out of control when he does
this. Today I decided to lunge him when he
did this, and then I remounted. I didn't
want him to think we were done when he pulls
this stunt. How can I safely handle this in
the saddle? I would like to hit the trails,
once this stops, and I feel like I can steer
him properly. This is his only problem.
I look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Sharon- Ohio
Hi
Sharon,
I am
assuming you are riding Western from the
mention of the curb bits. Keep in mind
that a mule's back is not round as
compared to the horse. The mule's back
is more flat. This makes it difficult
for him to turn with ease. I would use
a snaffle such as an O ring or D ring or
full cheek. You will want to use your
leg to aid your mule in turning. Say,
you want to go right. Pick up on the
right rein and pull toward the right
slightly back toward your hip (not your
waist). Apply your left heel at
the girth to encourage your mule to move
to the right. Use your right heel to
help "balance" the right side by placing
it slightly behind the girth as you tap
your left heel to move his body to the
right. Are you with me? Make sure you
are not over doing smaller circle work.
It takes time to build up your mule for
this type of work.
Your
mule will work better with praise and
reward throughout his sessions.
I
suggested a snaffle because your mule is
using evasion in the western curb and
that tells me he is not ready for a curb
bit as of yet. It sounds like your mule
is doing nice work for you. Keep
your sessions under 30 minutes.
There will be times when your mule is
very willing to work beyond 30 minutes;
be sensitive to your mule and keep
things positive.
Let
me know how things work out for you
Sharon -- thanks for your email.
Cindy K. Roberts
IS MY MULE CONDITIONED FOR THIS RIDE?
Hi! Got another mule question for you.
I ride my mule on Sundays, with the exception of a
trial ride or two a month. I am planning on a ride
in September where the first day trail is about
17-19 miles. How can I tell if my mule is in good
condition for this? I don't want to hurt him in any
way. He is kept in a pasture with 3 other mules, he
is a big guy , over 1100 lbs.(10 yrs old). I have
been trying to get some riding on him but the rains
have kept a lot of our trails closed, although it
does appear to be finally drying up.. Any advice on
how to get him ready or should I not be worrying? I
understand the trail is pretty flat most of the
way... Thanks AGAIN, D

1100 lbs is a very nice size for a
mule. Ten is young for a mule and keeping your mule on
pasture is good for keeping them in condition - rather
than keeping her in a stall or small paddock with little
or no exercise. For this reason, I think your mule is
very capable of handling 17-19 miles on your trail
ride. I am assuming your mule is not overweight and has
no prior injury. If you can, cold hose her legs
after the ride and rub them down with liniment. Ideally
you will want to put her in a corral or paddock so she
can walk out any soreness...this will help to keep any
possible swelling from developing. If this is not an
option, wrap her legs with support bandages such as
exercise/polo wraps. There is a correct way to
wrapping/bandaging your mule's legs and that is always
wrap for tendon support. I will elaborate on this:
Tendons are fibrous cords of
connective tissue attaching muscle to bone, cartilage or
other muscle. The suspensory ligaments are between
the two splint bones close to the back of the cannon
bone. They start close to the knee and go down to
the fetlock joint, where it divides into two branches.
Each branch attaches to the corresponding sesamoid bone
while some fibers combine with the common digital
extensor tendon. The suspensory ligament provides
support for the fetlock joint, preventing it from
extending down too far towards the ground, which would
increase the risk of strains. Under strenuous work
or exercise, it would be best to wrap your mule's legs
to aid in the support of the suspensory ligaments.
Always use even tension while wrapping and wrap in the
direction of the ligament. If you wrap against the
direction, this defeats your purpose. The way to
remember this is, wrap the leg(s) from head to tail.
If you are on the mule's near side (left) then you wrap
left to right. If you are on the mule's off side
(right) you should wrap right to left. Mule's are
athletes and are prone to injuries and strains...you are
smart to be aware of your mule's atheltic condition.
Let me know how she did on the
ride. Best wishes and thanks for your email. Cindy K.
Roberts
BODY
CLIPPING
Hi Cynthia,
Long time reader – first time
writer! Should I clip my mule in the summer or leave him
natural? We don’t do anything crazy, just some easy trail rides
once a week. It gets pretty hot and dry here, with daytime
temps in summer in 80’s and 90’s, occasional 100’s. Rocky’s
about 22 years, 16.1 hh and healthy. p.s. He’s my first mule
and I’ve only had him about 9 months.
Thanks,
Patty
in Simi Valley, CA
Hi Patty,
Thank you for your email. It is not necessary
to body clip your mule. Mother Nature designed the mule to be very
efficient with their body and hair coat. Your mule will adjust
quite well to the Rocky Mountain conditions. I know it might be
tempting to clip away, however your mule will need his coat on those
chilly nights in the Rockies. If you do body clip, take some
conditioner, apply thin coats to your hands and rub into the
hair. Body clipping can produce a dryness in your mule's skin and
hair coat. Rub all over where you have clipped. While clipping,
use sharp blades, dull ones pull the hair and ouch! When
the weather does get chilly or damp, put a blanket on your mule if
your mule is kept in a paddock or barn. (Blankets get hung up
in pasture fencing and are not safe to leave on.) Thanks for
writing, Cindy K. Roberts
FIRST TIME
DONKEY PURCHASE
Hi Cindy,
I ran across your website in my hopeless search for a weanling saddle
donkey. I love how you write about yourself and your adventures. I seem
to have scared off every breeder I've contacted. I never get a
second email. Perhaps I go into too much detail about how I want a
donkey next year for my 50th birthday, as the "pony" my parents
neglected to get me some forty years ago. It's a good thing I'm starting
early to find what will surely be the most pampered donkey in equine
history. Do you have any tips about how to contain my donkey enthusiasm
and approach breeders appearing to be a
normal buyer?
Linda
Rancho R Farm
Hi Linda, Thanks for the compliment -- I am glad you enjoy the humor
side in my web site. Yes I can help!
Attire is somewhat important when approaching a mule or donkey breeder.
Don't show up on the coldest day of the year (shows too much
enthusiasm) wearing Carhart coveralls along with pink rubber insulated
boots accompanied with designer ear muffs that look like a Dalmatian
dog. I think the doggy butt on one ear side and the tongue wagging from
off the other ear might give off the impression that you are vulnerable
and can be taken advantage of during this donkey purchase. Just for
good measure, do not
wear any clothing with donkey emblems or mule jewelry.
Next, take a deep breath -- don't drink any caffeine that morning and
role play your conversation that will take place with the seller.
Practice on control and you probably should write down your expectations
and questions for the seller ahead of time. If you lack in
self-control, take a friend with you so he or she can pinch you
back into reality. If you are beyond hope and you cannot contain
yourself while donkey shopping, perhaps you should look into a donkey
broker that can do all the leg work for you. In addition, you should do
your homework by researching about the breed and checking out the
breeding farms reputation. I hope this helps and keep me updated on
your birthday donkey purchase.
Sincerely - Cindy K. Roberts
PUTTING WEIGHT
ON YOUNG MULE
Hi Cindy:
Here is my question:
I have a mule (coming 3 yo) and I just can't seem to get her weight
up...I give her 14% (protein) grain (1-2 scoops, depending on how
much she wants to eat) and 1 1/2 flake of local 2 x's a day, plus
she's on pasture...and she just wont put on weight, any ideas? note
here: she wont eat her grain if I put oil in it, so that won't work.
She has been wormed, and she gets lots of roughage. (pasture and
hay)
She has always been like this, nothing I try seems to work, and I'm
very worried about her as she is still growing. (Her dam was a
Tennessee Walker, I'm not sure if that makes any difference.) Thanks
- Lisa
Hi Lisa -
14% protein is plenty for your young mule. Too much
protein can be harmful so watch your protein numbers. When you
say 1-2 scoops - is that a large scoop of grain? I
would be careful about the amount of grain -- weigh it so you
know exactly the amount that you are feeding your young mule.
Just because the mule has the ability to "take care of himself"
and not over eat -- I would still monitor the grain intake.
I am curious about the hay. Does she clean up her hay? If you
can get her to eat 2 flakes at each feeding -- that would be
even better. Grain does not actually "put weight on" a horse or
mule. It is a fuel supplement to their work schedule and
activity load. Choice hay is the best for putting weight on an
animal. I don't know where you live -- so that too will depend
on what is available in your area to feed to your young mule.
Horse and mule owners that are showing their animals like to
control how much hay the animal is getting because they don't
want the hay belly. Well, guess what? If you are exercising
that animal and giving it the choice/quality hay that he or she
needs -- then you're animal will not develop the big hay
belly.
Make sure she is getting a mineral salt block -- free access at
all times. Not white -- but mineral salt. TN Walkers are high
energy -- so I would try the extra hay -- have her teeth checked
and watch her eat. Is she dribbling or dropping food? Nervous
and watchful of others when she eats?
If the hay doesn't do it -- your pasture needs to be lush and
green with grass. Your next option is to go to your feed store
and try a different brand of feed. It may cost more but it
might be what she needs. Gradually change her over and compare
your old nutrition info to the new stuff and see what happens in
2-3 weeks. Put a tape/weight measure on her and keep track. It
is unusual to feed supplements to a mule and I would hold off
from doing that and try changing over to a different brand of
feed that is high quality. If you choose to feed a
supplement -- pay attention to the percentages of
vitamins/minerals along with the protein content. It is
easy to overload a hybrid with too much protein, so pay
attention to your regular grain ration nutritional content along
with feeding any supplement.
Your mule could be going through a growing "spurt" phase and
that would cause her to appear lean. Calories and nutrients are
going to bone growth and mother nature may not be ready to put
the weight on fast enough as you'd like. Good luck. Thanks for
your email and let me know how this works out for you.
Best wishes -- Cindy K. Roberts
WHY
DO MULES ROLL MORE THAN HORSES & CURL UPPER LIP
Hi
Cindy -- We have a 3 year old Tennessee Walker mule. My question is
--- why do they roll more than horses, and also they hold up their upper lip
a lot. Do you know
why?? Sue Wallrich
Hello
Sue,
I had to think about this one. Yes mules do role more than
horses. I believe the reason is mules tend to take care of themselves
more so than horses. I believe they roll more simply because they get
so much relief and benefit from rolling. It might be because of
the mule's conformation. The mule's back is flatter and the neck
is generally shorter and this would make it more difficult for a mule
to bend. Horses are capable of bending
(as in lateral bend exercises) to the side to scratch an itch or nip at a
fly, but if you watch a mule -- they don't have near the
"flexibility" to bend at the same degree as compared to a
horse. So I believe mules prefer to role. The mule will role to get
dust in his coat in order to help protect him from biting critters and
nagging insects.
Holding up the upper lip: in stallions the term used is flehmen and
of course that is a hormonal arousal response to a mare. All
equines will roll the upper lip in a response to a scent. The
scent could be from a tree or plant pollinating in the spring, animal
urine, manure, shavings, chemicals and soap products.
Thanks for your email Sue. Cindy K. Roberts
BITING
MULE
My
mule is 9yr old and I have had him for a little over 1 yr. Based on
the information I have, he had 2 previous homes and was treated very well.
We have bonded well and he appears to be glad to see me when I walk toward
his pasture. We ride about 3 times per week. He loves trails
rides and never gets tired. His training had been progressing very
well (I take riding lessons once a week). A few months ago, I was
leading him to a large pasture to ride. He does not like this pasture
(one side backs up to woods and this seems to make him spook often).
He was very reluctant to walk and he kept stopping. I got him walking
again and with no warning he reached down and bit the outside of my right
knee. I screamed and threw my arm up, but did not hit him. We
continued to the pasture and rode without much event (he spooked a few
times, but that is normal). He has attempted to bite my knee since
then, it seems to occur when I’m asking him to do something he does not
want to do (he has even tried to bite my boot when I ask for a lope, he will
still try to bite when being led even I’m just leading him around the
riding ring). My instructor has suggested doing ground work with him
so he will learn to respect me. We have been doing that for a few
weeks, he learns very quickly and seems to have gotten bored with the ground
work, he will sometimes make a half-hearted attempt to bite. I have
been using a stud chain under his chin when leading or doing ground work,
when he tries to bite, I jerk the chain a few times. He is still calm
and gentle when I groom him, pet him, give him treats….during these times
he has plenty of opportunity to bite, but he doesn’t even try. Is it
possible that biting has become his way of saying “I don’t want to do
this” and how do I change this behavior? He really is a good boy and
I would like us to communicate better. He has no medical problems and
all his vet care is up to date. My instructor said that his saddle and
bit fit him well. Thank you for any suggestions. M Watson
Yes you are right...your mule is communicating
his reluctance or insecurity through biting. I would make sure that
what ever the task is -- your mule should be schooled to that level to be
able to do that task. Your mule should have a relaxed frame of mind
(and not be upset or frustrated) in order to move forward with what ever
you are working on. I would not use harsh or extreme measures to
correct your mule at this point but I would suggest this: make sure
your mule gets enough play/relaxation time while working under saddle with
you. This will take the "pressure" off of him. Also,
reward him from doing things correctly. Simply rub the crest of his
neck and say "good boy" -- mules do better with praise
and encouragement. I would keep a short crop in my hip pocket -- have
it ready just in case he attempts to nip or bite -- and you will know
when that time comes. He may have that look in his eye or you may
just "feel" his disapproval -- be quick to respond with
a smack on his side or rump -- one smack. Do not strike
him in the face. Then move on to something else. Don't give
him time to think about what happened -- just move on. You are very
attentive and thorough to check with your vet about possible health issues
and to check with your instructor to make sure that you have correct saddle
fit. You have the right attitude and your mule is lucky to
have you. Thanks for your email -- best wishes Cindy K. Roberts
DIFFICULT
TO BRIDLE
I have a 7 year John mule I've had for 1
year. Just trail rides. Having problem with his head as far as
putting a bridle on, fly mask NO WAY. Halter is no problem.
Anything that goes over the head he starts thrashing his head around. Its
not the ears because he loves his ears scratched. He freakin' knocked
me down yesterday with his head. I lost my temper and punched
him----now I feel I really lost the training. My neighbor says he is
testing me and winning because my neighbor can put on his bridle not much
of a problem. I bought a new bridle that snaps behind his ears, and that
worked for 3 weeks, then yesterday he started his acting up. Any
ideas?
JZ-Tucson,Arizona
JZ
- I am wondering when the bridle problem began. Was it a minor issue
that got worse? Does the bit fit correctly and comfortably in his
mouth? At this point, I would make up to the mule. Mules do not
like injustice and they are incredibly smart about this stuff. You
would do better to make over him, give him some treats while you are
caressing his ears, face and poll area. Simply move slow and talk
nice and he probably will warm up to you after a while. After
several days of playing "Who's your buddy?" you can attempt to
bridle him again. Don't fault him if he is head-shy, because you
helped him to develop this habit. Stuff treats in your pocket,
hold the bridle with one hand and the bit with a treat in the other.
Do not raise the bridle. Allow your mule to bring his head down to
take the bit. Only reward him with a treat once he takes the
bit. Be careful not to bump his mouth/teeth in any way. You
can start to slip the headstall over and then stop. Start over
again. Have him reach for the bit, treat him while he takes the bit,
and slip the headstall over him. Reward him again after the bridle is
on and praise him. This will take some time and a bag of apple
flavored horse nuggets -- they go crazy for that stuff. There are
pros and cons for using treats in your training program, but if used
correctly it can be a positive training technique. Good luck and
thanks for your email. Cindy K. Roberts
Mule
will shy back and cower, almost quiver from raising hand.
Hi Cindy, I just received your DVD, hopefully it will help me with my
mule. I bought a four year old mammoth mule that has been out in
a pasture for the past year. We are making a lot of progress and I
think we are bonding well. I am starting at the beginning with his
training and treating him as if he has never been rode. He leads well,
does not kick or bite, but I believe that he has been whipped at some
point. If I raise a hand, rope, brush, sack, etc... above his head or
rump to fast he will shy back and cower, almost quiver. I have worked
sacking him out with various items and he does well, it is not the item that
scares him as much as the raising it up as if you were going to strike
him. I have never hit him and never will. If what I suspect is
true, will he ever get over it? He has bolted several times and broken
away from me and I have been working on that, following the advice you gave
another person on your website, and I believe we are making progress.
I appreciate your advice.
Jeff
Sweet Savoy, Texas
Hi
Jeff,
Your
mule has a had some time off and that is part of the issue. Work with your
mule on a regular basis and develop that bond of trust that is needed.
Your mule will get better, however, you need to be very careful at this
point to NOT MAKE MISTAKES. Mistakes are: walking up behind or
near your mule without announcing your presence in a soothing reassuring
way. Waving arms or throwing rope will have to wait until you have had
more quality time with your mule. Mules that have been abused or got
the wrong start in their life need to develop that trust with their handler
first, then you can start working on training. So for now...give up
raising your arm or rope. You can work with your young mule with other
basics such as leading, standing, picking up his feet. Several weeks or
months down the road you can attempt to work with his other issues and
continue to go slowly with him. Thanks for your email and keep in
touch. Cindy K. Roberts
P.S.
Your mule is young -- so I feel your mule has a good future with you if you
take the time to train him to his time table. Mules don't usually
develop a strong sense of confidence until at least age 6.
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