Hello Jennifer,

You are smart to recognize the sensitivity in Dixie.  You will have to test Dixie by applying the least corrective measure - if that is tapping your crop on the ground then do it.  Dixie has strong attachment to you however, you are the sheriff of that outfit and not another herd member or pasture buddy that Dixie would like to relate to.  There are times when her feelings will be hurt and by all means make up to her.   Keep setting the boundaries so that your safety is not compromised - in the long run you will be glad that you did.  Thanks for your email and let me know how your mules are doing.  

Cindy,
Wow, you are fast.  Thanks so much for the reinforcement!  I will put my badge back on and make sure my mule-posse knows they are just part of MY crew.   Keep the great advice coming.
Jennifer

Wants a mule pasture maintenance and entertainment

Hi Cindy
I am a 65 yo doc with a 20ac weekend farm in Mass.  My daughter had a horse and then the pasture looked very nice!  My daughter is gone now, so the horse, and I am there only on weekends.  So I want a mule year round for pasture maintenance and entertainment. not a horse because of the feeding habits and because it is quite nippy in winter.  

Water is free flowing year round, shelter is an open shed, food is free pasture  in summer, round bales in winter and grains on weekends.  Salt lick, electric fence, vet in town...that's the situation.

I'd like the mule to come for treats, take a halter for trimming and handling.  Better if I can make her pull the cart in snow and carry a load on field trips,  ride in the trailer and do light work in the field. Riding is less important - but I don't have much time to train her up.  Questions:  What should I look for?   What not?  I would not mind a big animal.  I fear their redoubtable kicks, any ways to predict them?

Fred

Hello Fred - that sure is a tall order for your first mule.  I would suggest getting a mammoth donkey. They are very entertaining to have around, friendly, easy on the terrain, smart and you can ride them and drive them. Mules tend to get independent when left out to pasture with no routine. I am concerned that it would not be a good experience for you. If you insist on having a mule to be your companion then I would look for a draft mule that is older - 15 on up. You definitely want an older animal that has been trained and knows the routine. Thanks for your email and let me know who the lucky critter is.

Cindy K. Roberts

BIT EVASION

9-22-07

 

Dear Cindy,

 

I just got your book and I really enjoy all of the mule information. However, I have another question.  My mule is evading the bit by putting his head on his chest when I ask him to turn.  I have tried several bits including: a Tom Thumb, grazing bit, mullen mouth Pee Wee bit, and most recently a Billy Allen type bit.  I had his teeth floated and his wolf teeth removed earlier this spring.  I have tried being gentle to firm. 

 

When we begin riding he does everything right-stops, backs, and turns.  Then he decides he is not going to turn, and puts his head down to his chest.  I am assuming this is his way of saying "we are done".  I feel really out of control when he does this.  Today I decided to lunge him when he did this, and then I remounted.  I didn't want him to think we were done when he pulls this stunt.  How can I safely handle this in the saddle?  I would like to hit the trails, once this stops, and I feel like I can steer him properly. This is his only problem.

 

I look forward to hearing from you.

 

Sincerely,

Sharon- Ohio

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Hi Sharon,

 

I am assuming you are riding Western from the mention of the curb bits.  Keep in mind that a mule's back is not round as compared to the horse.  The mule's back is more flat.  This makes it difficult for him to turn with ease.  I would use a snaffle such as an O ring or D ring or full cheek.  You will want to use your leg to aid your mule in turning.  Say, you want to go right.  Pick up on the right rein and pull toward the right slightly back toward your hip (not your waist).  Apply your left heel at the girth to encourage your mule to move to the right.  Use your right heel to help "balance" the right side by placing it slightly behind the girth as you tap your left heel to move his body to the right.  Are you with me?  Make sure you are not over doing smaller circle work.  It takes time to build up your mule for this type of work. 

 

Your mule will work better with praise and reward throughout his sessions.

 

I suggested a snaffle because your mule is using evasion in the western curb and that tells me he is not ready for a curb bit as of yet.  It sounds like your mule is doing nice work for you.  Keep your sessions under 30 minutes.  There will be times when your mule is very willing to work beyond 30 minutes; be sensitive to your mule and keep things positive.  

 

Let me know how things work out for you Sharon -- thanks for your email.

 

Cindy K. Roberts

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IS MY MULE CONDITIONED FOR THIS RIDE?

Hi! Got another mule question for you.

 I ride my mule  on Sundays, with the exception of a trial ride or two a month. I am planning on a ride in September where the first day trail is about 17-19 miles. How can I tell if my mule is in good condition for this? I don't want to hurt him in any way. He is kept in a pasture with 3 other mules, he is a big guy , over 1100 lbs.(10 yrs old).  I have been trying to get some riding on him but the rains have kept a lot of our trails closed, although it does appear to be finally drying up.. Any advice on how to get him ready or should I not be worrying? I understand the trail is pretty flat most of the way... Thanks AGAIN, D

---

 

Hello D -

 

1100 lbs is a very nice size for a mule.  Ten is young for a mule and keeping your mule on pasture is good for keeping them in condition - rather than keeping her in a stall or small paddock with little or no exercise.  For this reason, I think your mule is very capable of handling 17-19 miles on your trail ride.  I am assuming your mule is not overweight and has no prior injury.  If you can, cold hose her legs after the ride and rub them down with liniment.  Ideally you will want to put her in a corral or paddock so she can walk out any soreness...this will help to keep any possible swelling from developing.  If this is not an option, wrap her legs with support bandages such as exercise/polo wraps.  There is a correct way to wrapping/bandaging your mule's legs and that is always wrap for tendon support.  I will elaborate on this:  Tendons are fibrous cords of connective tissue attaching muscle to bone, cartilage or other muscle. The  suspensory ligaments are between the two splint bones close to the back of the cannon bone.  They start close to the knee and go down to the fetlock joint, where it divides into two branches.  Each branch attaches to the corresponding sesamoid bone while some fibers combine with the common digital extensor tendon.  The suspensory ligament provides support for the fetlock joint, preventing it from extending down too far towards the ground, which would increase the risk of strains.  Under strenuous work or exercise, it would be best to wrap your mule's legs to aid in the support of the suspensory ligaments.   Always use even tension while wrapping and wrap in the direction of the ligament.  If you wrap against the direction, this defeats your purpose.  The way to remember this is, wrap the leg(s) from head to tail.  If you are on the mule's near side (left) then you wrap left to right.  If you are on the mule's off side (right) you should wrap right to left.  Mule's are athletes and are prone to injuries and strains...you are smart to be aware of your mule's atheltic condition.  

 

Let me know how she did on the ride.  Best wishes and thanks for your email.  Cindy K. Roberts

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BODY CLIPPING

Hi Cynthia,

Long time reader – first time writer!  Should I clip my mule in the summer or leave him natural?  We don’t do anything crazy, just some easy trail rides once a week.  It gets pretty hot and dry here, with daytime temps in summer in 80’s and 90’s, occasional 100’s.  Rocky’s about 22 years, 16.1 hh and healthy.   p.s. He’s my first mule and I’ve only had him about 9 months.

Thanks,

 Patty in Simi Valley, CA

---

 

Hi Patty,

 

Thank you for your email.  It is not necessary to body clip your mule.  Mother Nature designed the mule to be very efficient with their body and hair coat.  Your mule will adjust quite well to the Rocky Mountain conditions.  I know it might be tempting to clip away, however your mule will need his coat on those chilly nights in the Rockies.  If you do body clip, take some conditioner, apply thin coats to your hands and rub into the hair.  Body clipping can produce a dryness in your mule's skin and hair coat.  Rub all over where you have clipped.  While clipping, use sharp blades, dull ones pull the hair and ouch!   When the weather does get chilly or damp, put a blanket on your mule if your mule is kept in a paddock or barn.  (Blankets get hung up in pasture fencing and are not safe to leave on.)   Thanks for writing, Cindy K. Roberts

 

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FIRST TIME DONKEY PURCHASE

Hi Cindy,

I ran across your website in my hopeless search for a weanling saddle donkey. I love how you write about yourself and your adventures. I seem to have scared off every breeder I've contacted.  I never get a second email.  Perhaps I go into too much detail about how I want a donkey next year for  my 50th birthday, as the "pony" my parents neglected to get me some forty years ago. It's a good thing I'm starting early to find what will surely be the most pampered donkey in equine history. Do you have any tips about how to contain my donkey enthusiasm and approach breeders appearing to be a
normal buyer?

Linda
Rancho R Farm
 

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Hi Linda, Thanks for the compliment -- I am glad you enjoy the humor side in my web site.  Yes I can help!

Attire is somewhat important when approaching a mule or donkey breeder. Don't show up on the coldest day of the year  (shows too much enthusiasm) wearing Carhart coveralls along with pink rubber insulated boots accompanied with designer ear muffs that look like a Dalmatian dog.  I think the doggy butt on one ear side and the tongue wagging from off the other ear might give off the impression that you are vulnerable and can be taken advantage of during this donkey purchase.  Just for good measure, do not
wear any clothing with donkey emblems or mule jewelry. 

Next, take a deep breath -- don't drink any caffeine that morning and role  play your conversation that will take place with the seller.  Practice on control and you probably should write down your expectations and questions for the seller ahead of time.   If you lack in self-control, take a friend with you so he  or she can pinch you back into reality.  If you are beyond hope and you cannot contain yourself while donkey shopping, perhaps you should look into a donkey broker that can do all the leg work for you.  In addition, you should do your homework by researching about the breed and checking out the breeding farms reputation.  I hope this helps and keep me updated on your birthday donkey purchase.

Sincerely - Cindy K. Roberts 

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PUTTING WEIGHT ON YOUNG MULE

Hi Cindy:
Here is my question:
 

I have a mule (coming 3 yo) and I just can't seem to get her weight up...I give her 14% (protein) grain (1-2 scoops, depending on how much she wants to eat) and 1 1/2 flake of local 2 x's a day, plus she's on pasture...and she just wont put on weight, any ideas? note here: she wont eat her grain if I put oil in it, so that won't work.  She has been wormed, and she gets lots of roughage. (pasture and hay)
 

She has always been like this, nothing I try seems to work, and I'm very worried about her as she is still growing.  (Her dam was a Tennessee Walker, I'm not sure if that makes any difference.) Thanks - Lisa

---

Hi Lisa -

14% protein is plenty for your young mule.  Too much protein can be harmful so watch your protein numbers. When you say 1-2 scoops -  is that a large scoop of grain?  I would be careful about the amount of grain -- weigh it so you know exactly the amount that you are feeding your young mule.  Just because the mule has the ability to "take care of himself" and not over eat -- I would still monitor the grain intake.  I am curious about the hay.  Does she clean up her hay?  If you can get her to eat 2 flakes at each feeding -- that would be even better.  Grain does not actually "put weight on" a horse or mule.  It is a fuel supplement to their work schedule and activity load.  Choice hay is the best for putting weight on an animal.  I don't know where you  live -- so that too will depend on what is available in your area to feed to your young mule.  Horse and mule owners that are showing their animals like to control how much hay the animal is getting because they don't want the hay belly.  Well, guess what?  If you are exercising that animal and giving it the choice/quality hay that he or she needs -- then you're animal will not develop the big hay belly.   

 

Make sure she is getting a mineral salt block -- free access at all times.  Not white -- but mineral salt.  TN Walkers are high energy -- so I would try the extra hay -- have her teeth checked and watch her eat.  Is she dribbling or dropping food?  Nervous and watchful of others when she eats? 

 

If the hay doesn't do it -- your pasture needs to be lush and green with grass.  Your next option  is to go to your feed store and try a different brand of feed.  It may cost more but it might be what she needs.  Gradually change her over and compare your old nutrition info to the new stuff and see what happens in 2-3 weeks.  Put a tape/weight measure on her and keep track.  It is unusual to feed supplements to a mule and I would hold off from doing that and try changing over to a different brand of feed that is high quality.  If you choose to feed a supplement -- pay attention to the percentages of vitamins/minerals along with the protein content.  It is easy to overload a hybrid with too much protein, so pay attention to your regular grain ration nutritional content along with feeding any supplement.   

 

Your mule could be going through a growing "spurt" phase and that would cause her to appear lean.  Calories and nutrients are going to bone growth and mother nature may not be ready to put the weight on fast enough as you'd like.  Good luck.  Thanks for your email and let me know how this works out for you.

 

Best wishes -- Cindy K. Roberts

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WHY DO MULES ROLL MORE THAN HORSES & CURL UPPER LIP

Hi Cindy -- We have a 3 year old Tennessee Walker mule.  My question is --- why do they roll more than horses, and also they hold up their upper lip a lot.  Do you know
 why??      Sue Wallrich

Hello Sue,
I had to think about this one.  Yes mules do role more than horses.  I believe the reason is mules tend to take care of themselves more so than horses.  I believe they roll more simply because they get so much relief and  benefit from rolling.  It might be because of the mule's conformation.   The mule's back is flatter and the neck is generally shorter and this would  make it more difficult for a mule to bend.  Horses are capable of bending
(as in lateral bend exercises) to the side to scratch an itch or nip at a fly, but if you watch a mule --  they don't have near the "flexibility" to bend at the same degree as  compared to a horse. So I believe mules prefer to role.  The mule will role to get dust in his coat  in order to help protect him from biting critters and nagging insects.

Holding up the upper lip:  in stallions the term used is flehmen and of  course that is a hormonal arousal response to a mare.  All equines will roll the  upper lip in a response to a scent.  The scent could be from a tree or  plant pollinating in the spring, animal urine, manure, shavings, chemicals  and soap products.
Thanks for your email Sue.  Cindy K. Roberts

BITING MULE

My mule is 9yr old and I have had him for a little over 1 yr.  Based on the information I have, he had 2 previous homes and was treated very well. We have bonded well and he appears to be glad to see me when I walk toward his pasture.  We ride about 3 times per week.  He loves trails rides and never gets tired.  His training had been progressing very well (I take riding lessons once a week).  A few months ago, I was leading him to a large pasture to ride.  He does not like this pasture (one side backs up to woods and this seems to make him spook often).  He was very reluctant to walk and he kept stopping.  I got him walking again and with no warning he reached down and bit the outside of my right knee.  I screamed and threw my arm up, but did not hit him.  We continued to the pasture and rode without much event (he spooked a few times, but that is normal).  He has attempted to bite my knee since then, it seems to occur when I’m asking him to do something he does not want to do (he has even tried to bite my boot when I ask for a lope, he will still try to bite when being led even I’m just leading him around the riding ring).  My instructor has suggested doing ground work with him so he will learn to respect me.  We have been doing that for a few weeks, he learns very quickly and seems to have gotten bored with the ground work, he will sometimes make a half-hearted attempt to bite.  I have been using a stud chain under his chin when leading or doing ground work, when he tries to bite, I jerk the chain a few times.  He is still calm and gentle when I groom him, pet him, give him treats….during these times he has plenty of opportunity to bite, but he doesn’t even try.  Is it possible that biting has become his way of saying “I don’t want to do this” and how do I change this behavior?  He really is a good boy and I would like us to communicate better.  He has no medical problems and all his vet care is up to date.  My instructor said that his saddle and bit fit him well.  Thank you for any suggestions.  M Watson

DIFFICULT TO BRIDLE

JZ - I am wondering when the bridle problem began.  Was it a minor issue that got worse?  Does the bit fit correctly and comfortably in his mouth?  At this point, I would make up to the mule.  Mules do not like injustice and they are incredibly smart about this stuff.  You would do better to make over him, give him some treats while you are caressing his ears, face and poll area. Simply move slow and talk nice and he probably will warm up to you after a while.  After several days of playing "Who's your buddy?" you can attempt to bridle him again.  Don't fault him if he is head-shy, because you helped him to develop this habit.   Stuff treats in your pocket, hold the bridle with one hand and the bit with a treat in the other.  Do not raise the bridle.  Allow your mule to bring his head down to take the bit.  Only reward him with a treat once he takes the bit.  Be careful not to bump his mouth/teeth in any way.  You can start to slip the headstall over and then stop.  Start over again.  Have him reach for the bit, treat him while he takes the bit, and slip the headstall over him.  Reward him again after the bridle is on and praise him.  This will take some time and a bag of apple flavored horse nuggets -- they go crazy for that stuff.  There are pros and cons for using treats in your training program, but if used correctly it can be a positive training technique.   Good luck and thanks for your email.  Cindy K. Roberts

Mule will shy back and cower, almost quiver from raising hand.

Hi Cindy, I just received your DVD, hopefully it will help me with my mule.  I bought a four year old mammoth mule that has been out in a pasture for the past year.  We are making a lot of progress and I think we are bonding well.  I am starting at the beginning with his training and treating him as if he has never been rode.  He leads well, does not kick or bite, but I believe that he has been whipped at some point.  If I raise a hand, rope, brush, sack, etc... above his head or rump to fast he will shy back and cower, almost quiver.  I have worked sacking him out with various items and he does well, it is not the item that scares him as much as the raising it up as if you were going to strike him.  I have never hit him and never will.  If what I suspect is true, will he ever get over it?  He has bolted several times and broken away from me and I have been working on that, following the advice you gave another person on your website, and I believe we are making progress.  I appreciate your advice.   Jeff Sweet Savoy, Texas

Hi Jeff,

Your mule has a had some time off and that is part of the issue. Work with your mule on a regular basis and develop that bond of trust that is needed.  Your mule will get better, however, you need to be very careful at this point to NOT MAKE MISTAKES.  Mistakes are:  walking up behind or near your mule without announcing your presence in a soothing reassuring way.  Waving arms or throwing rope will have to wait until you have had more quality time with your mule.  Mules that have been abused or got the wrong start in their life need to develop that trust with their handler first, then you can start working on training.  So for now...give up raising your arm or rope.  You can work with your young mule with other basics such as leading, standing, picking up his feet. Several weeks or months down the road you can attempt to work with his other issues and continue to go slowly with him.  Thanks for your email and keep in touch.  Cindy K. Roberts

P.S.  Your mule is young -- so I feel your mule has a good future with you if you take the time to train him to his time table.  Mules don't usually develop a strong sense of confidence until at least age 6. 

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Warning!  Under Missouri law, an equine professional is not liable for an injury to or the death of a participant in equine activities resulting from the inherent risks of equine activities pursuant to the Revised Statutes of Missouri. Your participation in training your own mule or horse by following the advice given in this column and throughout Every Cowgirl's Dream web site is a risk that may result in permanent disability and even death to you and/or your animal.  Advice in this column is given through 20 plus years of professional and private mule training experience.  The unique personality of your animal and the individual reader's skill level will vary greatly.  This column is not a substitute for a qualified mule trainer in your area.  Always utilize a professional and knowledgeable trainer to assist you.  The author asks each reader to evaluate his or her skill level, athletic ability and mule sense prior to attempting any training technique.   By submitting your question, you agree to having your inquiry and answer posted on Every Cowgirl's Dream web site and possibly published in upcoming literature and books.

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